Anti-aging and Vitamin C Skin Care Products

UV radiation, aging, air pollution, smoking, and unhealthy eating all take a toll on our skin. However, with America's aging population, many people are looking for the fountain of youth. Although not exactly a fountain of youth, researchers discovered that applying vitamin C topically can help repair the skin and reduce fine lines and wrinkles.

To understand how skin ages, it is important to understand the skin's compostion. In a simplistic explanation, the skin is composed of thee layers: the epidermis, the dermis, and subcutaneous layer. The outermost layer of the skin, the epidermis serves as a protective barrier between the body and the environment. It is composed of five layers: the basal layer (stratum germinativum), the prickle cell layer (stratum spinosum), the granular layer (stratum granulosum), the clear layer (stratum lucidum), and the horny layer (stratum corneum)

The basal layer is the innermost layer. In this layer, columnar-shaped cells have a nucleus and reproduce. As they reproduce, half the cells move upwards and push through the layers while the other half continues to replinish the basal layer. At the prickle cell layer, the cells change shape. Resembling a polygone, the cells have spines. The spine keeps bacteria out and moisture in. When the cells push upward to the granular layer, they lose their spines and become flatter. The nucleus dies, and a protien called keratin forms. Keratin found in the nail, hair, and skin, prevents moisture loss. The clear layer is found only in the palms and soles of the feet is responsible for cushioning and protecting the body.  The outermost layer is the horny layer. At this layer, cells are composed mostly of keratin. Keratin adds strength but allows the absorption of water. Eventually, these cells shed and are replaced by new emerging cells.

Within the epidermal layer, there are also two important types of cells. These cells are melanocytes and Langeran's cells. Melanocytes produce melanin. Melanin is not only a skin pigment, but it helps filter out uv radiation from the sun. Langerhans' cells, on the other hand, are part of the skin's immune system. Detecting foreign substances, they defend the skin against infections.

The next layer of the skin is the dermis. Composed of a mesh of collagen and elastin fibers, this layer is responsible for the skin's integrity, elasticity, and resilency. Accordingly, wrinkles form at this layer. It contains the nerve endings, sweat glands, oil glands, hair follicles, and blood vessels. By constricting and dilating, the blood vessels help regulate body temperature and provide nutrients to the skin

The innermost layer of the skin is the subcutaneous layer. Composed mainly of fat cells held together by a fibrous tissue, it cushions the body and provides insulation.

Now that you have an understanding of skin anatomy, how does the skin age? Several factors can cause the skin to age. As we age, the following conditions occur:

• Epidermal cells become thinner and less sticky. Each decade, the epidermal cells decrease by 10% and repair themselves less quickly. Consequently, the skin's barrier to the environment is less effective and moisture escapes more easily causing dryness.
• Dermal cells become thinner - Less collagen is produced, and the elastin fibers wear out. The elastin fibers help the skin to stretch and recoil. Thus, the skin begins to sag and wrinkle. Furthermore, the sebaceous glands and sweat gland produce less oil and perspiration respectively. This causes the skin to be dryer.
• Fat cells decrease - Fat cells in the sebaceous layer decrease and don't fill in the damaged areas as much.
• UV radiation from the sun - This causes collagen to break down faster. Since collagen is partly responsible for the skin's structure, the skin becomes more saggy and less elastic. Furthermore, when the collagen fibers are damaged, it causes the accumulation of abnormal elastin. The accumulation of abnormal elastin causes enzymes called metalloprotienases to be produced in large quantities. Metalloprotienases help reform the skin by producing and reforming collagen. However, this process does not always work well, and some of the metalloprotienases actually break down the skin instead and produce solar scars. As this process repeats itself, wrinkles develop.
• Menopause - Decreased estrogen levels can decrease collagen synthesis by 2% per year and decrease the skin's thickness by 1% per year.
• Free radicals - Free radicals are unstable oxygen molecules that only have one electron instead of two. Therefore, they take electrons from other molecule to be complete. This damages cells and may alter genetic material. It causes wrinkling by activating the metalloprotienases which can break down collagen.
• Smoking
• Air pollution
• Effects of gravity over time
• Habitual facial expression

To repair the skin and reduce the effects of aging, Vitamin C can be taken either internally or topically. However, when we take the vitamin internally, it is tightly controlled. Mechanisms limit the amount that delivered to the skin. Therefore, by applying it the skin, it is easier to deliver the vitamin C to the areas that need it the most. Supposedly, topical vitamin C delivers 20 times more vitamin C to the skin than taking it internally, Additionally, once applied, it is active for three days. Research has found vitamin C can reduce the effects of aging and damage in several ways:

• Stimulates collagen
• Stimulates elastin
• Maintains cellular integrity
• Acts as an antioxidant - Fights free radicals
• Naturally exfoliates skin
• Prevents redness and inflammation even after sun exposure
• Kills bacteria
• Wound healing

Not all vitamin C skin care products are the same. Although there is the most research about natural vitamin C or L-ascorbic acidVitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), it has several problems. First, it isn't stable. When exposed to air, it oxidizes quickly. Once it oxidizes, it is no longer effective and may even cause harmful effects since it can increase the formation of free radicals. Therefore, some manufacturers have used vitamin C derivatives to counter this problem. However, not all types of vitamin C work in the same way. When comparing a derivative to natural vitamin C, it should meet four qualities.

• Penetrate the skin easily
• When applied, release L-ascorbic acid in high enough concentrations to stimulate collagen synthesis.
• It should be more stable.
• It should be less irritating

In addition to meeting these qualities, when you buy a skin care product with vitamin C, look for a colorless products. Although oxidation is colorless in the beginning, the product will eventually turn yellowish or be brown around the rim and cap.

Because the effectiveness of different derivatives vary, it is important to note what ingredients are on the label. The following dervatives are used in skin care products today.

• L-ascorbic acid - This is a natural form of vitamin C, but it is highly unstable and irritating to the skin in some people.
• Magnesium Ascorbyl Phopshate - A water soluble derivative of vitamin C, this derivative is becoming more widely used. More stable than natural vitamin C, It that has the same collagen-synthesis effect but in smaller concentrations. Unlike natural vitamin C, it is not acidic. Therefore, it is less irritating to the skin.
• Ascorbic Acid Polypeptides - This is a stable water soluble derivative of vitamin C that converts to vitamin C when applied to the skin.
• Ascorbyl Methyl Silanol - This is another vitamin C derivative, but it is unknown whether to converts to vitamin C when applied to the skin.
• Ascorbyl Palmitate - A fat soluble derivative of vitamin C, this is the most widely used derivative in skin care products. However, it isn't quite as effective as Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate. To have a collagen-synthesis effect, this derivative needs to be used more frequently and in higher concentrations than L-ascorbic acid. Since it can degrade to, it should be kept in a dry, cool place.
• Ester-C - Capable of pentrating the skin, Calcium Ascorbate is added to reduce the acidic effects.

As we get older, time takes it toll on our skin.In response to aging, UV radiation, and unhealthy lifestyles, our skin becomes thinner, dryer, less elastic, and less full. As a result of this, our skin wrinkles and sags. Searching for new ways to reduce the effects of aging, research discovered that natural vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) can help repair the skin and reduce fine lines and wrinkles. Unfortunately, natural vitamin C is unstable and undergoes oxidization. If the product undergoes oxidization, it is ineffective and may even be harmful. In response to this problem, manufacturers have responded by using vitamin C derivatives. However, not all vitamin C products are the same. Therefore, before purchasing a vitamin C skin care product, consumers need to read the labels first.